37.2 Paris - California Coast

"Every August, for well over a decade, I get a deep calling to return to Northern California and explore the coastline. One of my favorite stretches is an often overlooked part of the PCH where Route 1 rolls through Marin County’s Muir Woods, spitting out at Stinson Beach, then continuing onto Point Reyes Station and eventually winding alongside Tomales Bay. While road trippers may often skip this hidden inlet portion, it remains one of my favorite ways to kick off a Northern California Coastal Trek. This year’s tradition was extra special as I got to introduce my ride or die of nearly twenty years, Shelby Duncan, to this coastal bliss for her first time. Here are some of the places we visited along the way on our Thelma & Louise road trip."

-Nicole Disson

37.2 Paris - CLOSE

 

STINSON BEACH

Whether I fly into Oakland, SFO, or drive up from LA, I always take the Richmond Bridge into Marin County and savor every bit of the drive through Muir Woods until I’ve reached the coastline. This stretch is full of eucalyptus trees, deep fog hugging the coastline and breathtaking cliffside views. I always pull over for a quick snap of some seaside wildflowers before descending into Stinson Beach for lunch at Parkside Cafe. Wow, does this place offer the pesto of our dreams! We savored every bite and went for a post-lunch siesta on the beach before visiting the cafe's adjacent shop for provisions-to-go as we hit the road! Oh, and some soft serve ice cream, always. Ordinary Stay founder and interior designer, Diana Taylor, joined us with her cute pup Alife for eats and beach hang.

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INVERNESS

Heading through Olema, towards Point Reyes Station, I love detouring through Inverness, especially when I can take my time. Point Reyes National Seashore offers up some of the most stunning sunset views throughout a sprawling park preserve located on the Point Reyes Peninsula. This joy ride always amazes me by how long it winds on and on in its expansiveness between ocean and bay. I would set aside at least an hour (or more) and make sure to take into account restaurants’ earlier closing time, unless you are bringing some tinned fish with pesto and a baguette for your dinner on the beach. With Alanis Morissette as our soundtrack, we took Pierce Point Road towards Tomales Point and stopped along the way when greeted by wild, magnificent elk!

Other favorites: Inverness Park Market cafe is deliciously cozy with a great market next door for provisions. Saltwater Oyster Depot is the Michelin neighborhood oyster bar for a more upscale style while still offering a comfortably laid back atmosphere. Directly across the street rests the Point Reyes Shipwreck, a historical landmark that is surrounded by beautiful views of Tomales Bay. North Beach at Point Reyes Beach forever holds a sacred place in my heart.

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POINT REYES STATION

Such a special town, we visited Bovine Bakery for breakfast, VISIONS for the best shopping, Point Reyes bookstore, Old Western Saloon for some honkey tonk & admired hidden gems by mixed media artist Ernesto Sanchez who reminded us “A Happy Heart is a Healthy Life!" Go to Toby’s Feed Barn for provisions and local honey, the Little Store for Vintage, Brickmaiden Breads and West Marin Culture Shop for tastes of cheese on tiny toothpicks. West Marin Community services thrift store for upping your CD game and enjoy long leisurely walks in the Giacomini Wetlands, somewhere off C Street and 6th where we stumbled upon Shelby’s abandoned dream barn. We might move here soon.

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TOMALES BAY

I love, love, love breaking up the drive by spending a night on Tomales Bay. It is so blissfully quiet, save the sound of the water and tree breeze. The Lodge at Marconi (once home of an infamous cult) just reopened with a new cute vibe. My personal favorite lodging is poet and translator Shook’s sweet airstream & welcoming writers' shack where we stopped off to rest our heads. As soon as I wake, I creep down to the foot of the bay for early morning foggy treats of washed up rocks so full of vibrancy and color. Inside the main house we are welcomed with fresh figs and warm tea cups full of hospitable love before making our way.

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THE MARSHALLS STORE

An absolute must visit every trip for oysters galore! Crack open a Montuckey Cold Snack or an Easy Rider for toasts to living life joyfully and fully. Hot damn the Marshalls Store crab sandwich was so good we are both still dreaming of it, along with the trout salad and views too! Sitting on the dock of the bay slinging back oysters and we are suddenly transported onto a European sea escape with blissfully bobbing sailboats and blue skies on our visiting day. Bring layers as the temperature can change significantly with the fog cover. Come with an appetite but worth it for a snack too, and check closing time, they shut their doors at four.

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JENNER BEACH

Leaving Tomales Bay, Route 1 heads further inland north of the Sonoma County border, where it eventually rejoins the coast in Bodega Bay. We stopped off at a special spot where the Russian River connects with the ocean in a small coastal town called Jenner. There are a few steep paths that lead down to driftwood-covered beaches, including Portuguese Beach and Salmon Creek Beach.

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FIN